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If you can find a
one-piece plastic liner that is the right size for your rink, then you are
one step ahead of me. I have a real problem getting one here, for a
reasonable price. The companies that sell the one piece custom liners are
one option (probably the best option if you can afford it), and places that
sell greenhouse plastic (usually big sizes) are another option. I would have
to get 2 years out of one of these liners for it to be feasible for me. I am
not sure that would happen. In the spring during the thawing of the rink, I
would think the liner may be damaged beyond repair.
Another option is a
heavy tarp. I have tried this once and I probably won't try it again. the
tarp leaked from the beginning and I had my worst rink yet during the
"season of the tarp". One thing I would be concerned with using a dark
colored tarp, is the sun's rays being drawn to it when it starts to warm up
in late winter. This is something to keep in mind. Please pass along any
comments anyone may have about this.
Anyway, when you get a day
that the temperature is below zero, put the liner in place, making sure to
let the excess liner run up over the wooden frame, and staple it to the top
or outside of the wood. I also like to lay pieces of wood on the liner (in
the middle of the rink) so it isn't affected by the wind while it is filling
up with water. Then you can turn on the water. When you have at least 3" to
4" of water all over the rink you can turn off the water and wait until it
freezes. Remember to remove the pieces of wood as soon as they start to
float. You don't want them frozen in the middle of your rink.
With any luck and a low
temperature, in a couple of days, or maybe even the next day depending on
the temp, you will have a sheet of glass to skate on. In the past, I have
flooded on one day and with a -18 C overnight, my children have skated on
the rink the next afternoon. But, it's quite possible some fine tuning
(light flooding) of the surface may be necessary if a rippling effect occurs
during freezing, but at least you have a really good base to work with that
was created in a day or two, even if the temperature was not all that cold.
Pick a spot – but not just any
spot. Preferably, your site will be fairly flat, close to your outdoor tap
and, if possible, shaded to decrease potential daytime melting. It doesn’t
especially matter if your location of choice is on grass or pavement, but
depending what surface you go with, you may want to adjust your technique.
- Don't depend on snow for a border or a base, if you live in climates
that often see mild temperatures. (Like where I live, Mt. Pearl,
Newfoundland, Canada.) It will probably melt during one of those mild
spells.
Cut up a piece of cardboard into 1 inch squares to use when stapling your
plastic to the wooden frame. The cardboard squares will help prevent
easily tearing the plastic, if you put the cardboard on the plastic where
you want to staple and then staple through the cardboard.
Beware of wet slushy snow. If you leave it on your rink too long and the
temperature drops, your rink could be ruined for the rest of the skating
season.
When resurfacing, try NOT using a spray nozzle. Instead let the water
"flow" out of the end of the hose completely unrestricted as you move it
from one side of your rink to the other. Make sure the entire rink surface
gets wet. I usually keep the end of the hose on the ice by picking up the
hose about 3 to 4 feet from the end. I like the smooth surface this gives
me and it is really help full when it is really cold. A spray nozzle can
"rough up" areas previously sprayed that are partially frozen, resulting
in a rough surface.
If you decide to make your own plastic liner and you have to join the
plastic together, I would recommend doing it inside. We have a local
gymnasium that will allow people to do this. Also, when putting the
plastic in place, choose a day that isn't windy.
 Ice Rink
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