Mole Crickets treatment

Mole crickets have become resistant to Diazinon, Dursban, Sevin (Carbaryl), and Malathion.

Talstar is a synthetic pyrethroid that is available in both granular and liquid concentrate forms. When label instructions are followed, it is very safe towards non-target animals such as birds, reptiles and mammals. Talstar lasts much longer than Acephate. We have had many reported cases of Talstar controlling mole crickets for up to two months, ants and fire ants for three months! Only 1 or 2 applications are needed each year. No special site preparation is needed when treating for mole crickets with Talstar. Talstar is very effective in controlling ants, fleas, chinch bugs and other turf and ornamental pests.
Most people attempt to kill mole crickets when they first appear.  These first sightings are in late winter or early spring (depending on your location) and all insects seen are in their adult stage.  An adult mole cricket is very difficult to kill and trying to do so is not only a waste of your time and money but is also ignoring the most destructive stage of the pest: the nymphet stage.  The adult mole crickets seen first in the season will tunnel through the surface of soil (leaving their distinctive narrow tunnels) and show themselves by landing on sidewalks, porches, driveways and swimming pools.  These adults are attracted at first by light (from street lamps, porch lights, sports fields, etc.) where they fly in to infest manicured turf grasses and lawns.   They then lay their eggs in pockets beneath the soil.
Forget trying to kill these adult mole crickets!  You must time your pesticide application to kill the young or mole cricket nymphs.  The nymphet stage is the one that devours your lawn - and they are the easiest to kill if treated properly.

Certain crickets occasionally invade homes and become a pest by their presence. Homeowners complain of their monotonous chirping, which can be annoying especially at night when trying to get some sleep. Indoors, some crickets can feed on a wide variety of fabrics, foods and paper products. Cotton, linen, wool, rayon, nylon, silk and furs are susceptible, along with soiled fabrics, sizing from wallpaper, glue from bookbinding's, fruit, vegetables, meat and even other crickets. An occasional cricket or two in the home usually presents no serious problem. However, large populations may congregate around lights at night, making places unattractive. Sanitation is the most important means of eliminating nuisance crickets. Keep all areas in and around buildings free of moisture, dense vegetation and weeds (1 foot band next to foundation). Mow lawns, cut weeds, and clean up garbage collection areas. Remove harborage sites such as piles of bricks, stones, rotting wood and other debris. Caulk and seal all cracks and crevices, especially near the ground level at basement windows and doorways.

House Cricket

Adults are about 3/4 to 7/8 inch long, light yellowish-brown (straw-colored), with three dark bands on the head and have long, slender antennae much longer than the body. Wings lay flat on the back but are bent down abruptly on the sides. Females have a long, slender, tubelike structure (ovipositor) projecting from their abdomen (spearhead at the tip) for egg-laying. Both males and females have two antenna-like (cerci) attached to the sides at the end of the abdomen.

Field Cricket

Adults range in size from 1/2 to 1-1/4 inches long depending on the species, are usually black-colored (sometimes brown), have long, slender antennae and a typical stout body (more robust than the house cricket) with large "jumping" hind legs. The ovipositor may be up to 3/4 inch long. Females have three easily seen appendages coming out of the tip of the abdomen, whereas males have only two. Most chirp and may sing both day and night.